Colman Moloney writes his opinion on Denmark after spending a year studying in Copenhagen
Wedged at the foot of Scandinavia are a little peninsula and a few hundred islands often overlooked by the rest of the world. People know its neighbour Sweden for its sensational pop music (think ABBA, Robyn and Max Martin), reliable cars, affordable furniture and meatballs, or Norway for its oil wealth, Vikings and dramatic fjord landscapes (think Frozen).
Though forming part of the distant and oft-envied region of the world that is Scandinavia, with all its progression and wealth, Denmark seems to be tarred with the same brush as its larger neighbours. Or at least that used to be the case. In recent years, Denmark has become a much larger player on the world stage, even a cultural superpower. It all started with TV drama – the likes of ‘Kingdom’ and hit political drama ‘Borgen’, not to mention trailblazing Nordic Noir crime dramas ‘The Killing’ and ‘The Bridge’. Audiences were drawn in by the bloody plots and stayed for the gorgeous home interiors. The success behind the phenomenon was billed, in part, to the contrast of chaos and disorder in this supposed society of equality, social justice and stability.
From the Rubble to the Ritz
The modern Danish state sees its roots in the Second Schleswig War of 1864, after which it was dealt the blow of losing twenty-five percent of its territory. This near fatal loss sparked an identity crisis for Denmark, and the country began to look inward. Farmers decided to buy machinery to use as a collective, cooperatives were set up and the Danes learned to support one another in common interest. This notion of collective responsibility is the bedrock of Danish society and caused its generous social policy and liberal lifestyle to become the envy of the world.
The Danish welfare state impacts every aspect of life in the country and it doesn’t come cheaply – many balk at the fact that many Danes pay as much as 57% of tax on their income. This might seem like an astonishing tax burden, but there is a high return.
Healthcare is universal and free, as is education from primary to tertiary level. University is completely free, with student grants of up to €750 if you also have a part time job of 10-12 hours a week. Parental leave is also very generous, with mothers being allowed 4 weeks before the birth and 14 weeks after work off. It is compulsory for fathers to take 2 weeks paternity leave with a further 32 weeks to be shared between parents as they see fit.
Seventy-five percent of childcare costs are paid for by the state, with those on low incomes or single parents paying between zero and twenty-five percent of the cost. These strong social supports mean that eighty-six percent of women return to work after having a baby, who in turn grow up to be highly educated and free of educational debt. This state is one that invests in its people, and sees the benefit.
Life is a Party
We’re very well aware of the damage national stereotypes can inflict, as well as the grain of truth that can exist within them. Norwegians are thought to be spendthrifts with all their oil money, the Swedes loathe conflict, Finns are notoriously introverted and the Icelandics all know one another. The Danes are thought by their counterparts to be extremely fond of a drink and a party. This comes from the fact that it is the only Nordic country never to have had a poverty-curbing temperance movement during the twentieth century.
In nearby Sweden, alcohol of a volume above 3.5% can only be purchased by people over 20 years of age in state run off-licences which close at 6pm on weekdays, 3pm on Saturdays and are shut on Sundays. The Danes would never do with such a restriction on their habits; almost every occasion calls for a few beers which can be consumed at home and in public places from the age of 16. Shots of liquorice-flavoured spirits can be consumed from the age of 18. Smoking in most clubs and bars is perfectly acceptable, and cigarettes aren’t heavily taxed like in Ireland. This is thought to be down to the fondness for smoking of Queen Margrethe, the ever popular and eccentric Danish monarch from the oldest royal dynasty in the world.
Partying of another form takes place on the edge of central Copenhagen. Christiania, a former military barracks turned hippy commune, is today a world of its own. It is a self-proclaimed autonomous country where most of the dwellings are self-made, services are independent of the surrounding city, crime is combatted locally and tolerance is uttered at every instance.
Most people know the commune for the availability of cannabis on the infamous Pusher Street. Though illegal in Denmark, the police mostly turn a blind eye to weed here, and a grassy tinge floats in the air above the well-manicured canals and mansions nearby. It is the perfect idiosyncrasy for this little country, one of contrasting freedoms.
Morally rigid Swedes all too often sneer at the Danes for their lack of tact when it comes to political correctness. The notion of political correctness is tricky in a Danish context. Freedom of speech is highly protected – censorship has been prohibited since 1849 and pornography was legalised in 1967, ahead of the curve. However, this freedom doesn’t come without controversy. In 2005 a Jutland newspaper became the centre of a global controversy with the publication of cartoons of the Prophet Muhammad, a blasphemous act according to Islamic teachings. Flag-burning, violent protests and riots ensued as the Danish tradition of relatively high tolerance for freedom of speech clashed with the beliefs of ‘new Danes’.
Something is Rotten in the State of Denmark
Hostility to foreigners is a trait that characterises this country, or at least seems to.
The Danish flag of a white cross is the oldest national flag in the world. Legend has it that the Dannebrog was a gift from God to the Danes, as it fell from the sky during a battle against a foreign enemy. The Danish flag is ubiquitous on the streets of Copenhagen, and indeed any other city or town. It straddles buses, embellishes advertisements and is obligatory for any birthday or special occasion. The flag waving is indicative of Danish patriotism, for to be Danish is a source of pride – one is part of a small elite club. Foreigners are prohibited from owning summer houses and in order to be granted citizenship, each case must be individually discussed by the Danish parliament.
One very noticeable thing about the streets of Copenhagen is the prevalence of the colour black. Young and old, with their perfectly sculpted bodies and pruned faces, drape themselves head to toe in black. Initially this prevalence forms the butt of a joke amongst those new to the country, but quickly becomes serious. If you dress in black you have a chance of passing as Danish – quite the compliment as everyone tries to conform. Conformity is the key. Where as other places such as New York and London urge you to stand out, this country urges you to stand in.
With such a well-funded and generally caring system Denmark can seem a world away from Ireland, but the two countries have more in common than you’d think. Our nation seems to be characterised by the idea of begrudging success, with failure being denounced and stigmatised. Many secretly wish for the failure of those about them.
Jante’s Law is a term coined by a Danish writer in the 1930’s used to describe the group behaviour of the Danes, and indeed Scandinavians in general. Its ten commandments include ‘You’re not to think you are anything special’, ‘You’re not to think you are smarter than we are’ and ‘You’re not to convince yourself that you are better than we are’. This ambivalence towards exceptionalism has been thought of as the reason for the success for the social progressivism in the country as it de-emphasises individual effort and places all emphasis on the collective.
Many regard that collective as being white, with being blonde an added bonus. The Danish People’s Party, a far-right populist party, used to sit on the fringes of Danish politics. It advocates the protection of the freedom and cultural heritage of the Danish people and aims to work against Denmark becoming a multi-cultural society by putting limits on immigration and promoting cultural assimilation of those admitted. Its rhetoric, not dissimilar to that of our neighbours UKIP or Frances’s Front National, is hateful and divisive.
Today it stands as the second largest party in the national parliament. Indeed Denmark showed itself up on the world stage last year when it launched ads in Lebanese newspapers to ward off refugees telling them they would benefit very little from a move up North. The anti-immigrant sentiment has seen changes to immigration law curbing family reunification and refugee rights, which has seen many simply cross through Denmark to a relatively more welcoming Sweden – a shameful moment for such a wealthy country.
To quote Shakespeare, ‘[s]omething is rotten in the state of Denmark.’ There is much to envy about this country, but there is also much to deplore, namely the establishment’s negative attitudes towards foreigners. Like any country, it is not without its faults. A recent Danish People’s Party billboard ad depicting the ‘typical’ all white Danish family was met with uproar as thousands of Danes responded with pictures of their own diverse and multicultural families.
We all Need some Hygge
Denmark was the first country in the world to legally recognise same-sex relationships, through registered partnerships in 1989. It has shown a great lead in gender equality and has set the bar high for tolerance and acceptance. It is the home of fairy-tale king Hans Christian Andersen, Lego and an urban cycling revolution which sees over 50% of Copenhageners commute to work and education by bike on a seamless network of bike lanes.
Much can be learned from this country in terms of collective responsibility, standards of living, but most importantly hygge. A fundamental quality of Danish society, hygge at its core can mean cosiness with candlelight. It includes many of the pleasures we associate with living – relaxing with friends and enjoying good food and a drink in a quaint setting. It’s immensely good for the soul and a true art form in that flat and beguiling country.
In these turbulent times, one can’t help but feel that we could all do with a bit more hygge.